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Black Canyon Of The Gunnison

3/28/2024

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 0:14      Rim Drive   
 8:15      East Portal Road 
13:57     North Rim Ranger Station
15:54     North Rim Drive 


Touring the Rim Drive in Black Canyon Of The Gunnison National Park is an easy going experience. There is literally one mesmerizing scenic overlook after another along this paved road and there are modern conveniences nearby. Touring the entire Rim Drive does require some patience, since the parking areas tend to fill up and there will be some backtracking to do. This is especially true on holiday weekends. Fortunately most of the foot paths to the scenic overlooks are only a few dozen yards long, so the turnover rate is short in the parking areas.  

Any place that a visitor stops to take a look there will be an eagle eye view along the Rim Drive. The Black Canyon terrain definitely is a dream come true for landscape artists and those who take a closer look at the geology will find that a lot can be learned. There are dozens upon dozens of dramatic pinnacles and rock formations rising from the canyon walls and each one has a name. There are also marbled rock walls that have patterns that resemble animate objects. Some of the hoodoos are shrouded and they impart an ominous look. As can be imagined, this is a great spot to use a zoom lens to capture unique images.

The Gunnison River can be seen way down below and the powerful updrafts in the deep canyon are a real joy ride for raptors and vultures. These big birds can soar by at over 60 mph with a tail wind, so those who are into birding will need to be fast when using the panning technique. It is possible to obtain permits to climb and rappel into the deep abyss, so Black Canyon is also a place for extreme adventurists.

The Black Canyon North Rim offers a rustic dirt road version of the Rim Drive experience. Black Canyon can be viewed along Colorado Highway 92 in the Curecanti National Recreation Area on the way to the North Rim. The scenic overlooks in Curecanti can take several hours to experience and there will be plenty of wildlife to spot along the way. The agricultural areas near Crawford are a prime deer and elk viewing area, so it is best to allot several hours for the 88 mile drive from Hwy 50 to the Black Canyon North Rim.

With so much time involved with getting there, camping at the North Rim Of Black Canyon is a good option. This end of the park is rarely overcrowded, except for busy summer season weekends. The North Rim Ranger Station is the spot to look for, which is located next to a developed campground. The station is not always staffed, but there is a self service box for fees. Hiking, climbing and backcountry excursion permits are also available at this ranger station.

The North Rim Drive begins near the ranger station and this lengthy dirt road is smooth enough for an average passenger car. Some of the very best views of the deep chasm can be found along this touring route and there are several famous landmarks to view. Due to the remote location, the North Rim of Black Canyon is less crowded than the main body of the park, so finding an empty parking spot will not be an issue. The North Rim definitely has the most dramatic scenery in Black Canyon Of The Gunnison National Park, so be sure to chalk this scenic drive high on the list!

East Portal Road goes into the depths of the Black Canyon Of The Gunnison and this is a little tour that is well worth taking on. The road to East Portal begins on South Rim Drive and the slope is steep all the way downhill to the river. There are several turnouts along the way that offer magnificent views of Black Canyon, so it is best to not be in a hurry. An entirely new world awaits upon arrival, where visitors will find a lush green riverside oasis.

The East Portal picnic areas have plenty of shade trees and they certainly are inviting. There is a developed campground onsite, but it is best to make reservations well ahead of time. Fly fishing the Gunnison River certainly is a pastime in the East Portal area, so be sure to pack some fishing gear for the ride. The views of the towering Black Canyon spires are simply amazing to see in this end of the park, which is actually within the boundaries of the neighboring Curecanti National Recreation Area. East Portal definitely is a unique experience, especially after gazing into this deep dark abyss from way up top!
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